Days 16-17

Wow, these two days are a blur. At the end of day 15, I was able to make it to the spring at 141.6 miles. The shelter before that Was Peter’s Mountain Shelter and I had heard that the water at that shelter was essentially all the way down the mountain, and then a trickle – definitely not worth it. I arrived at the spring after a day of fairly easy trails and setup my hammock. I got to wash my feet and take a sponge bath, I was by myself. At 10:30pm, I was awaken by a hiker about 30 yards from my spot, obviously filtering water, but taking his good sweet time about it. He kept flashing (perhaps unintentionally) his light in my direction which was annoying. Most AT hikers are in the bag by 7pm. I turned my high-powered black diamond headlight on him and he got the message. I found out the next day that this hiker’s trail name was City Dog, and he was night hiking when he ran across me. I found him sleeping in the next shelter so his night hike didn’t by him much mileage. Total mileage this day was 13.1.

The next day was cool and overcast. I started hiking with a goal of getting to Rausch Gap Shelter (11.6 mi). Well, it started raining at 10:30am and didn’t stop until 7:30pm. Needless to say, I was soaked and my boots were sloshing. This is not necessarily a bad thing, but hiking in the rain takes it toll. My toll was that I developed a wet rash on both of my hips. Since I started hiking, my butt has gotten a little smaller and my pack belt is a little loose now – this causes some friction. I also had some pain in my right foot on the outside edge, I think I must’ve bruised it. These are routine injuries, nothing too serious, but it makes for a long day.

When I got to the shelter, there were eight hikers piled up in a space for six. Several cleared out over the course of the afternoon (including City Dog) leaving 6 thirty-somethings and me – a mismatch made in heaven. Of their trail names, I remember Fizz, Pony, and Captain America. Did I mention that a couple of them had a dog – IN THE SHELTER! Of the six, all of them were “thru-hikers”, five were unemployed or had quit their jobs, one was a student hiking for the summer. All of them spoke in that slang “valley talk” mode that so many young hikers do and all of them smoked pot. They offered me “a bowl” but I demurred. “I have five kids. I have all the highs could ever want.” The night was restless with all seven of us sleeping shoulder to shoulder. This is part of the AT experience, but an overcrowded shelter can be very unrestful. I would’ve set up my hammock if it hadn’t been raining and been a lot more comfortable.

I woke up the next morning, and my head was aching – simply a bad night’s sleep. My foot was a little better, but still tender and certainly not ready for any serious rocks, which I knew would be coming up in a few days. That morning, the AT path diverged (a rare occurrence). There was basically a “dry path” around a famous beaver dam coming up. This dam has been around a long time and is almost a mile long. I didn’t know if I had to get wet crossing it, but it sounded fun so I took the risk.

When I got there, it was a little daunting. About 100 yards of “dam” to cross – some of it 4 inches deep, some of it 4 feet deep, with a loose trail of floating logs to walk across. I took some video of this and will post when I get a chance. I tried to walk across some big logs, but the water was deep and my poles wouldn’t reach. I fell astraddle the log with my 40 pound pack dragging me from side to side. I managed to only get one boot in the water, but now I was stuck, sitting there on the log in the middle of beaver dam, and no easy way to get up and walk out. I was able to finally throw my feet up on the log behind me, kind of like a gymnast stands up on a balance beam over being astraddle. I made the rest of the way without incident – a big risk for simply falling in the water, but a lot of fun.

After my close encounter, with my head aching, my sides burning, my foot throbbing, and my boot squishing (do I sound pitiable enough?), I decided in was time to pull off for a day, rest, wash up, and recuperate. I hiked an additional 2.2 down from Swatara Gap into a little town called Jonestown, PA. Nobody picked me up – I guess I look shady with a three-week old beard. And here I sit at the Holiday Inn Express lobby computer typing this missive.

A shuttle will pick me up in the morning and return me to the AT.

Two-Day mileage: 18.8

Total Trail miles: 159.3

Day 15

Today was a long day. It started with yet another porcupine. This one, however, was under the privy at the shelter, and so needless to say, I did not use the privvy this morning.

There was no water between Clark’s Ferry shelter and the spring that I camped at tonight, resulting in a 13 mile day. The trail was moderate, mostly running along the ridge. Not much change in elevation, but about 50% rocks, and 50% soft path. This kind of path is hard on your feet

When I got to this location, the spring was beautiful, piped, cold, and swarming with mosquitoes. For the first time I had to use my mosquito repellent wipes, but now they’re not bothering me. I was able to take a sponge bath since I’m the only one here.

Tomorrow is going to be a long day as well. I need to make it to Roush gap shelter, which will result in another 13 mile day, and there’s a big descent, and ascent  in front of me.

This is definitely a hard part of the trail. Not much water, lots of rocks, and long distances between shelters. Pray for me.

Today’s mileage: 13.1

Total trail miles: 141.6

Day 14

While I was still at Pine Mountain shelter, about 1 AM, the resident porcupine decided to scratch the wall next to my bunk in the shelter. Porcupines are prolific diggers, and this one was no exception. I chased him away with a lighter rock only to hear him begin scratching at the privy a few minutes later. So I went over there and chased him away as well. He was large, but not very threatening.

The descent into Duncannon was rough. Duncan itself is a relatively poor town. I was able to pick up my resupply box and get a sandwich at mama Pat’s. The climb out of Duncannon was rough, lots of rocks. The trail was not well-maintained with lots of obstacles. It was switchback, a large tree had fallen across both the lower and the upper tracks walking to parts of the trail with a single tree. What’s up on the ridge, the trail follows the actual ridge, which is quite rocky and rough, not well marked.

After several retracts, I was able to arrive at Clarks ferry shelter. Shortly after I arrived, we had a pretty good rain storm. It cool things off and it was nice. Water here is good, but water for the next 40 miles or so. It’s going to be very sparse. Be careful to make sure we don’t run out. I will get up early in the morning and make a long day to see if we can make it to the second shelter.

Not a nice day today.

Today’s mileage: 9.2

Total trail miles: 128.5

Day 13

Back on the trail between PA 944 and cove Mountain shelter. Approach trail to Darlington shelter is magnificent. Long level switchbacks, soft trail well-maintained. The first half of the day was very very pleasant. The last half of the day was pretty rocky. Coming up to the shelter to get to the shelter, there’s almost a 500 foot dissent. The water here is not good. It is another 400 feet dissent down the mountain, it was adequate, but is not running very well.

Tomorrow I plan to hike into Duncannon and resupply, but not stay there. I will hike up to either Clark’s Ferry Shelter, or Peter’s mountain shelter, I don’t know which. Overall, a pleasant day, I’ll be interested to see Duncannon tomorrow.

Today’s mileage: 9.6

Total trail miles: 120.2

Zero Day

Today was spent at the hotel, cleaning, curating, consolidating, packing and repacking, until I was happy with the results. As the day wore on, two thoughts filled my mind. 

Thought One: Less is More 

The further north I go, the less I need or want. My pack is terribly heavy. I looked at every single piece of gear today, thinking of all the miles I’ve schlepped them, and realizing that I don’t really need some of them. Things like my flint/steel, compass, paper maps, the AT data book, extra bug wipes, extra food, extra clothes and socks. When I mail it, I’ll check the weight, but I bet I cut 5 pounds of gear that I simply don’t need. 

The point is that doing with less is the path of getting older. My kids ask me what I want for Christmas, and I truly don’t want anything other than to be with them, to cook some family meals, and share time with them. I think not needing more also goes hand in hand with understanding that time is getting shorter as well. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not despairing about death, and I don’t feel old yet, but I’m not a spring chicken anymore either. This hike has me hyper focused – HYPER FOCUSED – on making every moment count. 

Though Two: Identity 

I’ve spent most of my life cultivating different identities based upon roles. I’ve been a husband, father, student, professional, teacher, mentor, manager, etc. It seems that we move in life, whether from day to day or even moment to moment, between these identities. When the kids left yesterday, I was sad because I love them and knew I’d miss them, but I had a deeper insight. I also missed them because when they left, I had no object on which to exercise my “father” identity. You see, the trail doesn’t allow you to put on an identity. Hikers don’t care that I have a PhD, or that I was a CIO of a state agency – it doesn’t even come up. The trail forces you to live in the moment. When you’re out here, the thing that matters – the only thing that really matters – is that you’re a child of God finding your way. Maybe that’s the attraction. 

The Canticle of Daniel comes up frequently in the morning Lauds and has this passage: 

Sun and moon, bless the Lord;   
Stars of heaven, bless the Lord;   
Every shower and dew, bless the Lord;  
All you winds, bless the Lord;  
Fire and heat, bless the Lord;  
Cold and chill, bless the Lord;  
Dew and rain, bless the Lord;  
Frost and chill, bless the Lord;  
Hoarfrost and snow, bless the Lord;  
Nights and days, bless the Lord;  
Light and darkness, bless the Lord;  
Lightnings and clouds, bless the Lord;  
Let the earth bless the Lord, praise and exalt him above all forever.  

Mountains and hills, bless the Lord;  
Everything growing on earth, bless the Lord;  
You springs, bless the Lord;  
Seas and rivers, bless the Lord;  
You sea monsters and all water creatures, bless the Lord;  
All you birds of the air, bless the Lord;  
All you beasts, wild and tame, bless the Lord;  
All you mortals, bless the Lord;  
O Israel, bless the Lord; praise and exalt him above all forever. 

Sounds like Daniel was a hiker. 

The plan for tomorrow is for Jim to drop me off at the northern ridge to make the ascent. I’m skipping all of the flat farmland between the lower and upper ranges. I should be in Duncannon, PA in two days. 

Today’s mileage: 0 

Total trail miles: 76.8 

Day 11 – 4th of July

Another heavy storm last night at Tom’s Run Shelter left my gear even wetter and heavier than before. I’m planning on pulling off for a while to wash, rest and regroup. Today, the kids are getting picked up by a shuttle and taken back to Harper’s Ferry, then trains to DC, Baltimore, overnight stay, and then a flight Florida to see Seth’s cousin and her family. We had a short hike (1.2 miles) to the nearest pickup point. We made it there in record time, but I must confess that I wish we hadn’t. I knew that saying goodbye would be hard and it was. I asked the kids what kind of report they were going to give their mother – they asked, “What kind of report do you want us to give her?” Just tell her that I’m not going to die, I’m doing well, and I miss her. 

I got dropped off at Pine Grove Furnace, a small crossroads with two interesting features. First, there is an Appalachian Trail Museum there with a pretty good history of the trail. I didn’t visit it because I spent most of my time at the second most interesting place, the General Store. Here you can get ice-cream, burgers, soda, and various resupplies. They have an “ice-cream” challenge for AT hikers – if you can eat ½ gallon of Hershey’s (of course) ice cream in less than 5 minutes, it’s free. As I was sitting on the porch enjoying my eggs and bacon, a hiker came out with a ½ gallon of some kind of fudge/chocolate combination. He wasn’t trying to break the record, only enjoy the ice cream on a warm summer morning. 

My buddy, Jim Beegley picked me up about mid-morning and took me to this house in Harrisburg. Jim is an old acquaintance from my podcasting days. He has a doctorate in EdTech and his wife is a teacher. Most of his kids are grown or about to fly the nest, but his youngest, Katie, is a jewel that I took to right away. After letting me shower, do laundry, stuffing me to the gills with ribs, burgers, potato salad, pasta salad and more, Jim, Katie and I went to Bass Pro Shop so I could get some lighter shorts (my scout shorts are simply too heavy when wet and don’t dry quickly) and a dry sack for food. My old dry sack had completely disintegrated and spilled red specks of plastic over everything. I checked into a motel to rest before the fireworks. 

Picking me up later, we ate again (MORE delicious ribs and burgers), and I overate. I’ve probably gained back all the weight I’ve lost up to this point. We then headed downtown to see the fireworks. The gathering at the Susquehanna River was wonderful, a throwback to the way the 4th of July should be. The colonnade along the river was filled with people strolling among the food vendors waiting for the fireworks to start. A myriad of pontoon boats began to gather out in the river to view the show. In the middle of river sits City Island where they fire off the rockets and on the opposite heights above is where the Confederates launched an attack on the city roughly 160 years ago but were unable to take it because of militia raised by the governor. After waiting in line to get Katie a funnel cake, we sat on the grass next to the river and waited. The fireworks show was gorgeous, and spending a beautiful evening with this beautiful family in this beautiful city was more than any wayward hiker deserved. Jim is truly blessed. 

Today’s mileage: 1.2 

Total trail miles: 76.8 

Day 10

Last night, I had a little problem with the rain. My fly was not set correctly and so my bag and hammock got a little wet. It wasn’t a disaster, but it was inconvenient and made my bag heavier today with all the wetness. I had to pull another pair of clothes out and now I have two sets of wet clothes that need to be dried. 

I got a late start this morning. We didn’t get out of camp until almost 10:30 because of all the rain and packing up. Wet gear makes it harder to pack, but we were happily on our way. We had a medium day today on soft trail mostly downhill to a shelter named Tom’s Run Shelter 

We ran into Rambo again and his companion who were coming the opposite way on the trail. Apparently, they had left their car keys somewhere and had to get transported back to where they started at Caledonia State Park, a long hike. I told him the next time I saw him, it would be to give him a beer at the brewery. 

The day was marked by blueberries. They were blueberries for almost the entire trail at our feet, most of them unripe, but some of them ready to eat. Seth really enjoyed picking blueberries and feeding them to John Robert who loves them. When we got to the shelter there was a slight shower again, but we were able to weather through that and now it’s clear and the birds are chirping as I lay in my hammock. We have to get an early start in the morning in order to catch the shuttle that will take Seth, Kathryn and John back to Harpers Ferry. Mike, the shuttle driver will also give me a ride to Pine Grove. I will get picked up there by my friend Jim and go into Harrisburg for the Fourth of July celebration. I intend on staying at a motel for a couple of days to rest, resupply and dry everything out. 

Another stellar day. The blessings just keep coming with the kids being with me. I don’t know how I’m going to make it when they leave. 

Today’s mileage: 6.2 

Total trail miles: 75.7 

Day 9

Last night at Quarry Gap Shelter there was a massive thunderstorm at about 2 AM. I can’t tell you how good it is to be in the shelter in your bag nice and toasty warm without getting wet. It’s one of the best things about hiking the AT-sleeping in a thunderstorm and staying dry.

Starting from Quarry Gap Shelter, we hiked through some pretty soft trail to Birch Run Shelter which was our stop for today. Two things of note: we saw a bright orange salamander on the trail which was uncommon. We also saw unripe blueberries. We went under some big electrical hummers and I can tell you that in the middle of a rain storm those hammers hum more than they normally do. It’s a little scary and intimidating to walk under them thinking of all the electricity and power passing through them. Somewhere along the trail today, we will also pass the actual halfway point of the AT. There was supposed to be a plaque, but we didn’t see one. 

When we got to our shelter, we found a beautiful campsite right next to a clear running stream. John was very dirty from playing in the dirt so he got to swim a little bit in the stream to clean off. We got some good video that including some underwater footage. 

The collection of hikers at the shelter tonight was very eclectic. We had one hiker, Shades, who is hiking solo, vision impaired, and using a guide dog. We saw Rambo again today, but he and his partner decided to go to the next shelter. There was a group of about six or seven hikers around smoking fire, not really even a campfire, more a smoking pile of sticks. 

We have no cell service today and so we were unable to call Mattie on her birthday which also happens to be the anniversary of the battle of Gettysburg, We just passed by Gettysburg yesterday. The kids had a lot of fun tonight. Seth is very impressed with this campsite and the beauty of the woods. I think that he’s happy that he came. 

Overall, a soft day of hiking, beautiful trail, a mid-day, shower to cool us off, and a glorious evening to sleep under the stars. 

Today’s mileage: 7.4 

Total trail miles: 69.5 

Day 8

Today was a glorious day. we spent some time in the morning taking our time packing up. We finally got out of Rocky Mountain shelter at about 915. We spent the morning mainly going down to Caledonia state park which was about 4.6 miles from the shelter.

In the park we came across some extreme trail magic. Hiker named Rambo was serving up salads, sandwiches, beer, fruit to any hikers coming down off the mountain, it being Saturday morning. He had through-hiked  the trail some years earlier, and just wanted to do something nice for all of the travelers that were going on. We spent about an hour in the park eating wonderful sandwiches with tomatoes and lettuce and mushrooms. Got rid of all of our trash and filled up our water and then we started to hike up to Quarry gap shelter.

Quarry, gap shelter is a fairytale. It looks like something straight out of Snow White. When you enter the shelter grounds, there is a picket fence with flowers planted on both sides. Just inside the compound is a stump with a gnome. The shelter itself is two, modest well kept rooms with a picnic table in the middle. Everything looks like it’s out of a fairytale. This is the finest shelter I’ve ever stayed in.

For dinner we had our regular food dehydrated, but we also had crème brûlée, which was a treat. I think John ate half the package. The kid ate so much food I think he’s going to pop.

Just a few minutes ago. A gentle rain shower started and we can hear the drops on the tin roof above us. We’re dry sleepy, and in the perfect place to spend the night in a summer shower. I think the kids had fun today. I know John did.

I’m so thankful that they are with me on the trail. I have two nights with them left, and then they pull off and go home. It’ll be a lonely, two weeks after that, but I’m sure there are further ventures waiting me.

Today’s mileage: 5.6

Total trail miles 62.1

Day 7

Today was a long but good day. Started off from tumbling run shelter which again is a very nice shelter with excellent water. There is a 1000 foot ascent out of tumbling run shelters which was very challenging for me. My target was South Mountain Pennsylvania where I picked up Kathryn, Seth and John Robert.

John, so far is doing great. He likes to see everything in the woods and play with rocks. I think it’s good that he’s getting this kind of exposure to nature this early. He sleeps a lot while his mother carries him. We don’t have to worry much about food for him because his mother is his food, plus he eats whatever we happen to be eating as well.

The only challenging part about the day was the hike into South Mountain along Pennsylvania Highway 233. It’s about a mile and a half very hot with the heat from the road coming up. Hiking along road is not very nice. But I was able to make it to the post office, resupply with food, drop some other food that I didn’t need and gear off and mail it back home to Allyson. Then we had to hike back up from the post office to get to the trail which was about another 1.5. That added 3 miles for the day, which, for me, was already starting to turn into a long day.

We were able to get those chores done, and make it to the trail, which was an ascent, but not a very challenging one up to the ridge another 2 miles to the shelter. According to the notebook, the shelter has “the best smelling privy since Georgia.“ I don’t know if that’s true, but it is nice. I’ll talk about privies another day.

Overall an excellent day. I’m glad to be with my kids and to hear about everything that’s going on at home. Having them here is a joy and blessing.  

Today’s mileage: 8.6

Total trail miles 56.5

Day 6

My good friend Wally gave me a little booklet detailing trip notes from Wally. In it, he quotes Arnold Bennett, “ The chief beauty about time is that you cannot waste it in advance. The next year, the next day, the next hour are lying, ready for you, as perfect, as unspoiled, as if you had never wasted or misapplied a single moment in all your life. You can turn over a new leaf every hour if you choose. “ Thanks, Wally. I needed that.

Today marks the end of the first section of my hike. I have finished the Maryland section and begin the Pennsylvania section today. So, it really is the end of one phase in the beginning of the next. Your prayers and thoughts that you wrote me before I left, all of you, have greatly moved me. I appreciate what you’ve done. You give me the strength to continue.

Today was a perfect hiking day. For starters, it was the first day that I haven’t felt like I’ve been dragging my backside. I decided to take a little bit longer step for ups and downs, this is made all the difference. I think also, my body is getting used the exercise and routine. The trail north of PenMar is beautiful. The trees have changed to pine trees mixed with hardwoods whereas in Maryland it’s all hardwood. Although there are some rocks, certainly not what I was expecting. I think mentally I was prepared for Rock Hell, but the reality of the situation was much gentler.

Relatively short day today. I stopped at tumbling run shelters, which are beautiful. There is a crystal, clear, spring, piped, running out of the rock. This is the kind of water that you want on the AT. Two nicely built shelters, one for snorers,but I set up my hammock anyway, because it’s more comfortable than sleeping on a pad. I met a father and daughter who were hiking in for the day. They were from upstate Pennsylvania, and were delightful, they’re hiking out tomorrow

Kathryn, Seth and John Robert will meet me tomorrow during the day and we will hike up to a shelter. It’s another short day so that Kathryn can get used to carrying the baby. I’m so looking forward to seeing them.

Today’s mileage: 9.5

Total trail miles 49.9

Day 5

Got up fairly early at 6 o’clock because I knew that today would be a long day. I packed up my gear fairly quickly, skipped breakfast, and got on the trail at about 720. Today would be two ascents including an ascent to the highest peak on the Maryland trail with a significant down into PenMar.

The day was relatively uneventful. The largest up to the top of high rock was difficult. About a mile out from the turn off to the high rock overlook, I began seeing graffiti with spray paint over some of the rocks in the trail, that’s peculiar because I’ve never seen graffiti on rocks before. As I got to high rock, I understood why. High rock, which is a promontory of rocks that looks out over the east was literally covered every square inch in painted graffiti. It was the ugliest thing I’ve ever seen in my life. North the graffiti continued on the rocks for about a mile. What is someone thinking that does that?

The down into Penmar was hard there were several large rock fields to traverse that took about 20 to 30 minutes apiece, this is the kind of terrain that is extremely hard on your body and feet. By the time I got down to the regular elevation, there were some good trail into PenMar itself. I saw numerous deer along the way. I had made a reservation at a PenMar hikers hostel named Zero Day. It’s a new place and I highly recommend it. The owner is very conscientious and the place is spotlessly clean. You can do laundry, eat,  take a shower have a private room very nice accommodations. I feel rejuvenated and ready for the next day.

Today’s mileage: 10.0

Total trail miles 41.4

Day 4

Got a really late start from Pogo campground and decided that I would take a short day and end up at my scheduled stop, which is Ensign Cowell shelter. I arrive there around 5 o’clock, and there were a few slack packers in the shelter, who are not very friendly. So I decided to set my hammock up away from the shelter, ostensibly, so my snoring would not bother them, but really because it would seem to be a better option to be by myself.

About 530, a crew of about 17 Outward Bound kiddos, probably about 14 to 15 years old, marched into the camp. I found out from their leader that this was their first hike, indeed many of them the first time they had been in the woods. They set up their tarp tents all over the place, including across the paths. this was bad enough, but as they got in the sack, a tent next to me, literally 15 feet away from my hammock, was a tent with seven adolescent boys, who proceeded to scream, like little girls at the spiders on the ground. Their leader came over several times, and told them to calm down, but this was to no avail, they didn’t actually quiet down until almost 1030.

The next morning, their leader gave them a fairly stern lecture about camp etiquette, and how to be respectful to others around them. We’ll see if it sinks in. My main thought over the whole thing was, “how can I do the most good with these kids without complaining about them?“ so I didn’t blow my top. I didn’t fuss at them or yell at them. I showed several of them had a tie knots and offered beef jerky which they refused. I can vaguely remember the first time I went backpacking. While I wasn’t as noisy, I probably knew less than they did.

Today’s mileage: 4.4

Total trail miles 31.8

Day 3

Left the Dahlgren campground early at 7:23 AM. My destination was the Pogo campground. I had heard that there was good  water there and indeed, that was true. The day was relatively uneventful. The first part consisted of a number of moderate ascents. I ate lunch at Pine knob shelter, which is a terrible shelter without much water, but I was able to get a 45 minute night nap in.

The rest of the day was ridge running and so was relatively easy and pleasant. The ground was soft and relatively level straight north.

Met a lot of people on the trail today, but not as many as over the weekend now that the weekdays are here, the people are starting to sit out.  You basically have section and through hikers on the trail during the week and this makes the camps a little less crowded. As I lay in my hammock here in pogo camp site, I can only see one other couple in the entire camp and it’s large.

I’m about half a day ahead of my schedule, but now I have a quandary. Do I take a short day tomorrow? If so, I’ll be back on my schedule or do I take a long day tomorrow do a 10 miler and make it to the next shelter that would put me about 3/4 of a day ahead. I haven’t decided what I’m gonna do yet. I got some blisters that could use a rest. I guess I’ll decide in the morning

Today’s mileage: 7.8

Total trail miles 25.7

Day Two

Since it’s a short day, I slept in kind of late. I stepped off from camp at 9:20 AM, three minutes earlier than yesterday. I guess that’s an improvement.

My destination was the Dahlgren campground, I lovely place maintained by the Maryland state department. There is running water, showers, bare poles, and tent pads. I’m here with about five of the families and a few trail hikers.

Overall, it was a good day. The weather was clear. I began to realize just how slow a hiker I am when a six year old girl – trail name, Viriole – past me, twice. Her mother and her stopped at the White Rock, Cliffs to view the scene, and I was able to get out a little sooner. But they passed me up about an hour later. Later in the day, a section hiker named One Lung passed me up. You know you’re slow when a hiker named One Lung passes you up.

Hiking so slow, I spent a lot of time contemplating rocks. The Appalachian Mountain range is the youngest range in the world. They were formed during the last I e Age about 200,000 years ago. Generously estimating my life expectancy at 80 years, these rocks are already 2500 times older than I’ll ever be. And when I die, I’ll return to dust and be precisely as mobile as these rocks. So they deserve a little respect.

Change of plan: I’m hiking to Pogo Campsite tomorrow instead of Pine Knob. It’ll make a shorter day after.

Today’s mileage: 7.1

Total trail miles: 17.9

Day One

The day didn’t start out well. I walked down to the post office, only to find out that it doesn’t open until 9 AM. So I walked back to the bolivar  bread, bakery to get a roll, only to find out, they didn’t open until 8 AM. So here I sit waiting for them to open the door. I’ll hang out here for an hour until the post office opens and then mail my back home box. I don’t regret it. Time spent in Harpers Ferry is never wasted.

Finally stepped off on the trail at 9:23 AM. The first part of the hike along the canal and river was pretty uneventful, the path is flat and well tended. The ascent to the Weverton Cliffs was uneventful, although it took me a while to get there. I had 7 miles to the first shelter, stopped and ate lunch. I decided I was going to try for the second shelter which is the Crampton gap shelter. I read the sign I incorrectly and ended up about a mile past the shelter. Since it was already after 7 PM, I decided to pull off on the side, pitch camp and spend the night.

The interesting thing about this campsite is that there is a town to the west of the ridge. Either Def Leppard or a Def Leppard copycat is playing a concert down in the town. I can hear all of the top tunes of Def Leppard down there. It’s almost 930 and they’re starting to wind down. I guess it’s Saturday night 

I’m posting this journal entry without any corrections. I’m dictating it with my voice. My reading glasses are in my backpack, and I don’t wanna get out of my Hamic to get them. Tomorrow night I will remember to put them in the hammock. So sorry about the mistakes total distance hike today 13.2 miles including side trails. Not a bad day one.

Lesson for the day: slow down

Day 0: Approach Trail

For those of you who have hiked the AT before, you know that the southern terminus of the trail officially starts at the top of Springer Mountain in Georgia. Springer Mountain is a tall mountain, and somewhat difficult to get to. Most hard-core AT hikers will start at Amicalola Falls, which is a hard days hike from Springer, all of it up. Some slack packers will hire a shuttle to take them up to the top of Springer, but I think this is cheating. I’ve always found it interesting that you have to hike a hard day to get to the beginning of the AT, but that’s fitting considering the breadth and depth of the trail.

Getting from the Brazos Valley to Harpers Ferry today was my approach trail, and a very interesting day. The two flights up to DC were uneventful. After 3 subway rides, I made it to Union Station, which is a massive building beautifully designed. I had several hours to kill so I bought a half a sub sandwich and sat down on the lower level to people watch.

I didn’t have to wait long, because a man ran up to the subway counter, stole some money and ran off. Several seconds later four cops passed by running to go catch him.

When I finally got on the train, the real fun began. If you’ve never read the book A Walk in the Woods, by Bill Bryson, you really should pick it up. You’ll laugh so hard your sides will hurt. Anyway, there’s a character in the book named Mary Ellen. The guy I sat next to, let’s just call him James, was a male Mary Ellen. He was obviously a train spotter, and launched into a detailed description of the trains that he had when he was a kid, how he worked at a hobby store and bartered for trains rather than take money, and how he used to steal coils of wire from houses to wire up the trains that he collected. He peppered me with a little known facts, such as Roger Clemens went to his high school, but because he never went to class they were disqualified from winning any games. He was also a Scoutmaster, and so that was something we had in common. He told me detailed descriptions of at least five different trips that they took with the scouts. A real boor. After 30 minutes of this, I politely excused myself to go to the restroom. When I got back he was leaning over the seats in front of us and talking with those folks whom I’m sure he had never met before. He remained in that position for at least 20 minutes talking to them, about what I don’t know, his butt-crack just visible over the top of his waistband. That was the longest hour and 15 minutes I’ve ever had in my life.

Getting to Harpers Ferry, I was picked up by my Airbnb hostess Rei, who is a delightful woman with NOWLS experience. Her bed and bed breakfast is well worth visiting if you’re ever in Harpers Ferry. I’ve unpacked my pack, redistributed, everything to be more efficient, packed my go-home box for tomorrow, and I’m sitting here on the porch of the house looking at the overcast sky to Maryland Heights across the river. In the morning, I’ll start day one. Yes, today was an eventful approach trail.



Hold for Pickup

I posted my first trail package this morning. Using the “hold for pickup” service, you can post a package to a U.S. post office which will keep it for you until you get there. In this way, you can stage boxes of consumables to be picked up during your hike. It’s a bit of a balancing act. You have to allow for variations in your hiking schedule, delivery time, and even the hours the post office is open. You don’t want to show up at 10 am to a post office that doesn’t open until noon. Arriving late could mean that you have to spend the night close by and essentially waste a day hanging around when you should be moving.

Mama Bear will post the next three boxes when the dates get a little closer. She will add tortillas just before mailing – they are a great luxury on the trail. Knowing that she is back home, holding down the “fort” and thinking of me is a great comfort, a connection to the real world. I can imagine getting the boxes she sends, perhaps with a little note in them. My father taught me the greatest thing you can give to another person is to wait for them. My boxes will be waiting for me somewhere up ahead. Mama Bear will waiting for my return somewhere behind.

The best laid plans…

Carl Philipp Gottfried von Clausewitz is often misquoted as saying, “No operational plan extends with high certainty beyond the first encounter with the main enemy force.” In fact, it was not von Clausewitz, but rather Helmuth Karl Bernhard Graf von Moltke who said that, even though it’s a fair restatement of the battle philosophy of von Clausewitz. What does this have to do with hiking?

I have a plan. The plan is to cover 271.4 miles in 29 days. But my return flight home actually leaves 33 days after I step off in Harpers Ferry, WV. Experience has taught me to plan for the unexpected. Delays, setbacks, distractions, coincidences, and opportunities will change the plan, almost certainly from the start. I wouldn’t be surprised if I got back a week later than planned, or didn’t finish at all. In any case, I’ve resigned myself to the fact that I’m not completely in control of this hike. The trail will teach me what I need to know, one way or the other.

Which brings me to the point of this post. Dealing with the unknown, i.e., being comfortable in an uncertain situation, is a trait known as “tolerance of ambiguity.” Project managers are good at assessing ambiguity, usually phrased as complexity and uncertainty. In fact, any project manager worth her salt knows that the first step to controlling uncertainty is to acknowledge it. Then a “band” of uncertainty is applied, usually with statistical tools. By defining the boundaries, PMs can gain some level of comfort.

It turns out that TOA is a key characteristic of many leaders. It is negatively correlated with neuroticism and positively correlated with openness to new ideas. As I’ve gone through my career, I’ve coached many managers to examine their level of comfort with ambiguity. When they reply that uncertainly makes them anxious (not usually in those words), I point out that ambiguity will exist regardless of their feelings. But if they want to feel better, be prepared.

Packing

As I finalize the items that I’m taking, as always, I’ve packed too much. I’ll pack my gear several times before Friday and begin to cut items that would be nice to have but I really don’t need. Once on the trail, as I make that first ascent, I’ll vow to cut another group of items that I really don’t need. After about a week, my body will have adjusted to the “net” weight of hiking – the balancing point when the weight of my wants are in equilibrium with my needs.

Isn’t life like that? Aren’t we always engaging in a balancing act – time, money, relationships, attention, work, love? The trail teaches us to be honest with what we really need to take along the way. Our bodies don’t want us to carry anything extra as we ascend that slope. In reality, our bodies need little on the trail other than warmth, water, and a little food (much less than we think we need). I find that as I get older, my list of things I “need” grows shorter. Practically, that means that much in my life is a luxury. Or perhaps I’ve just learned to view it as such.

What else to I need to cut? What else looks like a need, but is in reality a want?

The Cost of Living in The World

As the time draws near for me to step-off, the reality of being gone for a month is beginning to sink in. Routine things like paying bills, adding chlorine to the septic tanks, bathing the dog, and checking the mail have to be addressed. Of course it helps to have a family that will take care of things while I’m gone. The minutiae of daily life reminds me of the story of Martha and Mary in the New Testament. You see, I’m more prone to be a Martha, distracted by the preparations of the day with my head turned down to the things of the world, rather than looking up to God, to the one thing that really matters. This is why I’m looking so much forward to this trip. I will have an extended period of time, really the longest in my life, to step out of the details of the world and concentrate on my mental, physical, and spiritual health without the worry of the day-to-day.

It also makes me consider time. The last 30 years of work haven’t seemed that long. I’ve gotten married, raised five kids, earned two advanced degrees, and held leadership positions with half a dozen organizations. I’ve accomplished everything I set out to do professionally . Yet, I don’t feel that old. For the first time since graduating from college, I won’t have a full-time “nine to five” job. My situation has changed. I’ll have more time to do other things. But my mind always seems to turn back to the trail.

When you’re out there, your mind, body, and soul reset. I always notice it after about a week when I start to get emotional. I’ve described it to my wife as “my heart learning to beat again.” Little things and memories feel much deeper. I think about people I love and those I’ve lost. I sense the world around me differently – the smell of the earth after a sudden shower, the warmth of a sunbeam on my arm stabbing through the dense canopy. It feels like my spirit is a bottle being uncorked.

Don’t get me wrong – hiking is hard. Hiking is “deprivation,” which is why new hikers almost always have one of two reactions to long-distance backpacking. Some “embrace the suck” and get what it’s all about. They’ll be back. Others, when you ask them about their experience reply, “It’s not what I expected.” Well, what did you expect? Here’s hiking in a nutshell: you wake up, walk, eat, walk some more, eat, sleep, wake up and walk some more – simplicity itself. But when you return to the real world, you see things differently, and long to get back to it.